Thursday, June 21, 2012

Day Six - Venice / Murano / Burano - Thursday, June 21, 2012

Today we decided to venture out to the islands of Murano and Burano.  The heat is still with us and is very uncomfortable.  Today's high was 88 degrees with 78% humidity.  To say I spent most of the day dripping sweat would be an understatement. I know women are supposed to "glow" but in this heat I was perspiring heavily.

We stepped outside our Hotel and hopped on the vapporetto.

The yellow and white building is the vaporetto stop and the door with the white awning is our Hotel.  So when I said the vaporetto let us off at the doorstep of our Hotel, I wasn't kidding. We took the vaporetto out to Murano.

Murano’s reputation as a center for glass making was born when the Venetian Republic, fearing fire and the destruction of the city’s mostly wooden buildings, ordered glass makers to move their foundries to Murano in 1291. Murano glass is still associated with Venetian glass.

Murano's glass makers were soon numbered among the island’s most prominent citizens. By the 14th century, glass makers were allowed to wear swords, enjoyed immunity from prosecution by the Venetian state, and found their daughters married into Venice’s most affluent families. While benefiting from certain statutory privileges, glass makers were forbidden to leave the Republic. However, many of them took the risks associated with migration and established glass furnaces in surrounding cities and farther afield - sometimes in England and the Netherlands.

Murano’s glass makers held a monopoly on high-quality glass making for centuries, developing or refining many technologies including crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. Today, the artisans of Murano still employ these centuries-old techniques, crafting everything from contemporary art glass and glass jewelry to Murano glass chandeliers and wine stoppers.

Today, Murano is home to the Museo del Vetro or Murano Glass Museum in the Palazzo Giustinian, which holds displays on the history of glass making as well as glass samples ranging from Egyptian times through the present day.

Some of the companies that own historical glass factories in Murano are among the most important brands of glass in the world. These companies include Venini, Ferro Murano, Barovier & Toso, Simone Cenedese and Seguso. Today, to protect the original Murano Glass art from foreign markets, the most famous Glass Factories of this island have a Trade mark that certifies products in glass made in the island of Murano.
The oldest Murano glass factory that is still active today is that of Pauly & C. - Compagnia Venezia Murano, founded in 1866.

The island is very picturesque with the bright buildings and canals. Even the flowers in the flower boxes were made of glass.
We spent the morning wandering in and out of the various glass shops buying souvenirs and wishing we could afford some of the larger art pieces and chandeliers.  The island has some beautiful outdoor glass sculptures that reminded me of  Chihuly glass pieces.

It has kind of become a joke between us that whenever we go over a bridge (of which there are many) we have to stop and take a photo. Here is a selection of our Murano bridge photos...





By this time we were about done in by the heat and decided to look for a cool spot to grab a bite of Lunch.  We found a Pizza place that was indoors and somewhat air conditioned and crashed.
The Pizza was delicious and had a wonderful thin crispy crust.  The slices were huge, so we folded them in half to eat them New York style.  There was also a grocery store in this little indoor mall area. We ventured in for a look.  I'm always fascinated by grocery stores in other countries.  We came away with a number of fun items.  More cupcake sprinkles, chopped hazelnuts (for a chocolate hazelnut cupcake), Lemon Soda, some caramels, fruit gelees and some cookies.




After the grocery store we headed to the vaporetto stop to head to Burano. The island was probably settled by the Romans, and in the 6th century was occupied by people from Altino, who named it for one of the gates of their former city. Two stories are attributed to how the city obtained its name. One is that it was initially founded by the Buriana family, and another is that the first settlers of Burano came from the small island of Buranello, to the south.

Although the island soon became a thriving settlement, it was administered from Torcello and had none of the privileges of that island or of Murano. It rose in importance only in the 16th century, when women on the island began making lace with needles, being introduced to such a trade via Venetian-ruled Cyprus. When Leonardo da Vinci visited in 1481, he visited the small town of Lefkara and purchased a cloth for the main altar of the Duomo di Milano. The lace was soon exported across Europe, but trade began to decline in the 18th century and the industry did not revive until 1872, when a school of lace making was opened.

Lace making on the island boomed again, but few now make lace in the traditional manner as it is extremely time-consuming and therefore expensive.

Burano is also known for its small, brightly-painted houses, popular with artists. The colors of the houses follow a specific system originating from the golden age of its development; if someone wishes to paint their home, one must send a request to the government, who will respond by making notice of the certain colors permitted for that lot.

Other attractions include the Church of San Martino, with a leaning (at the same degree angle as the Leaning Tower of Pisa) campanile and a painting by Giambattista Tiepolo (Crufixion, 1727), the Oratorio di Santa Barbara and the Museum and School of Lacemaking.

As we wandered the streets of Burano we indulged in some gelato. My choice - Lemon.  It was cool and refreshing and the best Lemon gelato I have had on the trip.









After spending a very hot afternoon in Burano we caught an air conditioned vaporetto back to our Hotel.  We rested a bit and then decided to walk down to the Piazza San Marco, since it was early evening and the tourists from the cruise ships and the day bus tours would be gone.  Venice is beautiful in the evening and the streets and alleyways take on a very magical quality.






On the way back to the Hotel we stopped to have dinner in a small cafe.  I had Penne Pomodoro and, of course, a Lemon Soda.  After dinner, a stop for a final gelato of the evening. Tonight I chose Vanilla.


Tomorrow we explore more of Venice...

Buonanotte!


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